sewinghelpline

I often get questions like: “My machine was sewing fine, but on this new project my threads are breaking?” and “Why is my machine making my fabric pucker?” and “Why is my thread breaking while I am sewing?”  All these situations can be very frustrating.  Before you take your machine into the repair shop, let’s take a look at the thread you are using.  This could solve your sewing problem.

A thread, is a thread, is a thread…..not necessarily so.  There are sewing threads, embroidery threads, quilting threads, top stitching threads, upholstery threads, metallic threads, invisible threads, tailor’s threads and so on.  Let’s talk about the average sewing threads available at most fabric stores (or where you normally buy your threads).

I am not going to get too technical about how threads are made except that basically they are made from either short fibers or continuous fibers twisted to make a thread.  Continuous fibers produce a smoother and less “fuzzy” thread.  Bargain threads tend to be courser and fuzzier than their more expensive counterparts.  Let’s take a look at some of the most common threads available today.  I have not included any “bargain” threads.

Coats  Dual Duty Plus

As you can see from the above pictures, this thread tends to be very irregular and uneven.  These random sections of loops and fuzz have a tendency to get caught in the eye of the sewing needle causing the thread to shred and break during sewing.  If you use this thread, be sure that you use a size 90/14 needle.  These deformities will also be noticeable in straight stitching lines causing them to look slightly crooked.   The will also be evident in decorative stitches.

Gutermann (German)

Gutermann thread is also a “fuzzier” thread although a good all purpose sewing thread.  I find it a little to heavy to sew on light weight fabrics like silks, voiles, jerseys, tricots and fine cottons. Ideally, you want to match your sewing thread with the threads that are woven or knitted into the fabric you are sewing with.  Since this is a heavier thread, it will have a tendency to pucker lightweight fabrics.  The thread does not blend well with the finer fabrics and you will definitely “feel” the thread in your seams.  Be careful not to use a needle too small or the thread will not pass through easily causing it to start to shred.

Molnlycke (Sweden)

Molnlycke is a very good all purpose sewing thread and sews well on all fabrics from heavy to light weight. Occasionally, you might find some fuzz, but it will produce great looking stitches and patterns.  It is very strong for your heavy fabrics and blends well with the finer woven fabrics.

Metrosene by Metler  (Switzerland)

Mertosene by Metler is the finest of the threads.  This does not mean it is a weak thread, it means the it gives the best results on the lightweight and the finest of fabrics.  If you are really picky about stitch quality, this is the thread you should choose.  With the proper stitch length, you should not experience any puckering when sewing seams with Metrosene.  This thread will also enable you to use a smaller gauge needle on your lightweight fabrics. The best looking decorative and applique stitches are produces with this thread.

In summary, thread really does make a difference in your sewing.  All these threads will work fine on medium to heavy fabrics, but when it comes to the finer lightweight fabrics, you will have much better results with Molnlycke or Metrosene.  I hope this information was useful to you, and, as always, email me if you have questions or comments.